Bernkastel-Kues

Our third hotel in the Mosel was in Wehlen, a small village about two kilometers from Bernkastel-Kues. Weingut S. A. Prum is an impressive building on the banks of the river. The main house is beautiful with stylish dining rooms and seating areas. Raimond Prum, the current owner, greeted us and showed us to our room in a newer building behind; it was lovely, more like an apartment.

Our host had kindly provided a bottle of his Badstube wine and plate of nibbles as a welcome gift. It was lovely sitting outside in the shade of the trees enjoying the wine, certainly more complex than the wines we had tasted so far.

It was still very hot, over 30°C, but as the sun went down it became cool enough for us to take a short stroll along the river. The sunset was beautiful, it really was a super location. 

Much to our delight the next morning was wet; drizzle hung in the air and the temperature had dropped to the low 20s, a welcome break from the over 30 degree days we've had.

After a delicious breakfast we set off along the Mosel to Bernkastel-Kues. The paths and cycleways along the river, both sides, are great; flat, wide and well maintained. 

As we walked along we passed Dr. Loosen Weingut on the other bank. We've enjoyed a few of these wines at home.

As we were on the Kues side of the river we had great views of Bernkastel, its ferris wheel and castle sitting high above the town. Looking back down the river the landscape was shrouded in mist but still looked stunning.

St. Nikolaus Hospital was set up in the 1400s by Nikolaus Cusanus for the poor and elderly. Nikolaus bequeathed the hospital, his vineyards and properties to the hospital foundation and 500 years later, surving wars and crises, it is still a home for senior citizens. 

In an adjacent building is a wine bar and shop. To our surprise and amazement the wines for sale are in the cellar built in the 1400s along with the hospital. There was a vast collection of wine, all with details of producer and location. It was a much nicer experience than picking a bottle from a shelf. 

Crossing the bridge we explored Bernkastel and its old timbered buildings which all now house shops, bars and restaurants. They look stunning all together athough some signs took us by surprise! 

Our lunch was traditional German fare, flamkuchen with salmon & prawns and salty lard on rye bread with onion and gerkins. Both were really tasty, perfect with a glass of Bitburger beer. Our lunch was completed, much to my delight, by the Bummelzug passing by; we didn't take a ride this time.

We walked back on the other side of the Mosel, past Dr. Loosen. I spotted a heron but as we got nearer it took flight. To our surprise it landed in a nest in a tree where its partner was already perched, not something we see in our local area. I managed to take a photo although my phone camera was on full zoom so it's not completely clear.

We only stayed two nights at Weingut S. A. Prum so thankfully our last morning had dry clear skies and we could have breakfast on the large balcony overlooking the Mosel. 

Although we were accompanied by the noise of the helicopter spraying the vines on the other side of the river. It had started spraying at 5am, very noisy, and shows that a winegrowers life is not as idyllic as it may seem. 

Our next stop is Trier, leaving the Mosel river and its beautiful countryside behind we are staying in a city for a few days.