Trier - sightseeing

After our nine days in the Mosel we stayed in Trier for a city break. It is still on the Mosel river and is famous for its Roman buildings. We decided to use the Hop on Hop off bus for a tour of the city and to get from one place of interest to another. Our 50 minute bus tour with great commentary also included an hour's river cruise on the Mosel. 

The bus tour was superb, passing all the city's main building,dings but also going to the top of a small hill giving a fantastic view across the vines.

Our river cruise was quite different to the one we had earlier in our holiday. The Mosel river and its banks changes quite considerably. As well as the city view the river here has sandstone cliffs and narrow strips of vines. It was a lovely cruise although a bit warm; we were late morning and the temperature was already 29°.

I was amazed at the Roman structures still standing, not only because of their age but also because generations since have not dismantled them to build a new building, something I feel we do too much of these days. 

We visited two of the Roman sites, the first being the amphitheatre. It was huge and although the original seating areas are now grass it is clear to see how impressive an arena it would have been.

As well as looking down from the highest tier we also walked underneath and through the entrance of the gladiators or performers. The main floor is actually a wooden structure with a vast cellar underneath. It is full of water today with walkways but was a very impressive sight. It is at times uncomprehensible as to the age of the bricks and structure still standing. 

The day was getting hotter and so I sat in the shade whilst Hubby explored more. This photo shows how huge the amphitheatre is, Hubby looks tiny on the higher tier.

Walking back into the city centre we passed the Dom Trier (Cathedral), founded in 1035 and the adjacent Gothic Basilica built on Roman foundations. Both were so impressive, the Cathedral had some very ornate shrines and alter whilst the Basilica has superb stained glass windows and painted ceilings.

Our final sight seeing of the day was the very impressive Porta Nigra. Originally a gate for the Roman city it was then used as a church with additional walls built around it. These were later removed to once more reveal the impressive gateway. Unbelievably the stones have no mortar, it is a dry stone building dating back nearly 2000 years. 

The view of Trier centre was superb, made better of course by the Bummelzug. It was certainly a bustling city with a variety of visitors; some large tour groups, school trips, shoppers and tourists like Hubby and I. 

We had a super day in Trier, what better way to finish it off then with a wine tasting before dinner.

Bernkastel-Kues

Our third hotel in the Mosel was in Wehlen, a small village about two kilometers from Bernkastel-Kues. Weingut S. A. Prum is an impressive building on the banks of the river. The main house is beautiful with stylish dining rooms and seating areas. Raimond Prum, the current owner, greeted us and showed us to our room in a newer building behind; it was lovely, more like an apartment.

Our host had kindly provided a bottle of his Badstube wine and plate of nibbles as a welcome gift. It was lovely sitting outside in the shade of the trees enjoying the wine, certainly more complex than the wines we had tasted so far.

It was still very hot, over 30°C, but as the sun went down it became cool enough for us to take a short stroll along the river. The sunset was beautiful, it really was a super location. 

Much to our delight the next morning was wet; drizzle hung in the air and the temperature had dropped to the low 20s, a welcome break from the over 30 degree days we've had.

After a delicious breakfast we set off along the Mosel to Bernkastel-Kues. The paths and cycleways along the river, both sides, are great; flat, wide and well maintained. 

As we walked along we passed Dr. Loosen Weingut on the other bank. We've enjoyed a few of these wines at home.

As we were on the Kues side of the river we had great views of Bernkastel, its ferris wheel and castle sitting high above the town. Looking back down the river the landscape was shrouded in mist but still looked stunning.

St. Nikolaus Hospital was set up in the 1400s by Nikolaus Cusanus for the poor and elderly. Nikolaus bequeathed the hospital, his vineyards and properties to the hospital foundation and 500 years later, surving wars and crises, it is still a home for senior citizens. 

In an adjacent building is a wine bar and shop. To our surprise and amazement the wines for sale are in the cellar built in the 1400s along with the hospital. There was a vast collection of wine, all with details of producer and location. It was a much nicer experience than picking a bottle from a shelf. 

Crossing the bridge we explored Bernkastel and its old timbered buildings which all now house shops, bars and restaurants. They look stunning all together athough some signs took us by surprise! 

Our lunch was traditional German fare, flamkuchen with salmon & prawns and salty lard on rye bread with onion and gerkins. Both were really tasty, perfect with a glass of Bitburger beer. Our lunch was completed, much to my delight, by the Bummelzug passing by; we didn't take a ride this time.

We walked back on the other side of the Mosel, past Dr. Loosen. I spotted a heron but as we got nearer it took flight. To our surprise it landed in a nest in a tree where its partner was already perched, not something we see in our local area. I managed to take a photo although my phone camera was on full zoom so it's not completely clear.

We only stayed two nights at Weingut S. A. Prum so thankfully our last morning had dry clear skies and we could have breakfast on the large balcony overlooking the Mosel. 

Although we were accompanied by the noise of the helicopter spraying the vines on the other side of the river. It had started spraying at 5am, very noisy, and shows that a winegrowers life is not as idyllic as it may seem. 

Our next stop is Trier, leaving the Mosel river and its beautiful countryside behind we are staying in a city for a few days. 

Punderich and Traben-Trarbach

Our second hotel was at Punderich, a small village on one of the many bends of the Mosel. Staying at another wine makers, Weingut Lenz, our room had a balcony overlooking the village and the vineyard on the hillside beyond the river which looked stunning at night.

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This holiday we had planned to drive to each location and then not use the far for a few days making the most of public transport. Arriving at the village bus stop we were pleased to see others waiting, a good sign we had the time right, however once on the bus we had some confusion. 

Hubby asked for a return ticket but the driver would not take cash or either of our credit cards, we didn't really understand but presumed it need a debit card. As we turned to get of a lady on the bus shouted to us to stay on; we understood some of her explanations and worked out we could buy a ticket for 9 euros each that would give bus and local train travel for a month .... yes all of June and all of Germany. Hubby asked the driver for these tickets and he took cash, so confusing. 

Anyway we have discovered that this ticket is a help and incentive in Germany for June, July and August. It is 9 euro per month and you have to put your details on the ticket. It is to encourage people to use public transport and also help with higher petrol and living costs. 

Back to the bus, it was a lovely ride, nice that we could enjoy the scenery without concentrating on the road or the map. Traben-Trarbach is split across the Mosel and we got off in Traben which had a small cobbled street with vines growing overhead. Many of the shops were closed, we have noticed limited opening times and shop closures in Germany, presumably due to the difficulties we have all had in recent years. 

After a coffee we strolled up to the bridge, a beautiful structure with the iconic cone towers. It was built in 1899 and has rooms inside that are now used as the registry office. 

Around the time the bridge was built Traben-Trarbach was the second largest wine trading centre in Europe, the first being Bordeaux. With the demand for Reisling wine was high in the United Kingdom and overseas the Mosel river was ideal for transportation of wine from over 100 winemakers in the area. 

Crossing the bridge Trarbach stretched in from of us, mainly hotels and winemakers with flatter river banks. As with all the Mosel villages it was a beautiful location. 

It was a very warm day with the temperature rising to the mid thirties so we didn't wander far from the shade of the town and of course we needed refreshments. The cafe called with a super variety of cakes, just right for lunch! 

One reason for choosing Punderich for our hotel was the Pundericher Hangviaduck on the opposite bank. Our plan had been to walk a round circuit crossing the river on the small ferry boat, walking under this amazing structure, over the bridge at Reil and back along the Mosel ... but not in the high heat. 

Having the 9 euro ticket allowed us train travel too so instead of taking the bus back we took the train to Bullay and actually travelled on the viaduct. Built between 1872 and 1880 the viaduct is 786m long and is the longest hillside viaduct in Germany. It is 10m high and has 92 arches each of which span 7.2m with the pillars being 1.3m. It maybe everyday travel to locals but I loved our train journey, such a surprise too to be in the turn for a very short time and arriving on the other side of the Mosel, hopefully my map explains it. 

After the tunnel the train crosses another amazing structure, Doppelstockbruhe, a double decker bridge. The cars cross on the lower bridge and the trains above. After crossing the bridge by train we caught the bus back to Punderich and whilst at the bus stop I managed to get this great photo of a train going over and a boat on the river below.

Our evening at Weingut Lenz was a great treat, a wine tasting in their wine cellar. The cellar rooms were lovely and cool, perfect in the unusual high temperatures. Hubby and I expected a wine tasting with nibbles but it was a full table of cheese, hams, salami, bread and  dips, there was so much food (my photo is before the cheese and meat platters were added). The wines were all lovely but in honesty I didn't understand many of the differences as my German is very limited, it was a great evening.

Our second day was very hot, rising to 36 degrees. I am not good in heat and even Hubby found it a bit warm. We decided to go out early to the observation tower on the Prinzenkopt, Prince's Head. It is directly above the tunnel we travelled through the day before and is visable from our balcony. It is a memorial to those who died in conflict between 12th to 17th March 1945. It was originally a wooden structure but is now a metal observation tower that offers fantastic views over the Mosel.

My video shows just how far you can see and how much the Mosel meanders, some of the curves almost rejoin each other. 

Observation Tower video - https://youtu.be/KzcOiDHm1dM

As the weather was so hot we stayed in our room until it cooled in the evening. On the way back from the Observation Tower picked up supplies and enjoyed a buffet on our balcony in the shade. 

We had a lovely time in Punderich at Weingut Lenz, the outdoor seating area was lovely in the evenings. The winemakers wine was stored in a chiller from which guests could take a bottle, recording it on the form provided and so added to the room charge. A wine version of an honesty bar, very much enjoyed by all. 

I took this photo as we left, our room was the top right with the open window. We hadn't noticed the big wine press on the roadside opposite our hotel was one from Weingut Lenz, it was very impressive. 

After a super few days, dispute the intense heat it was time to move further up river to our next hotel.