Saturday, 18 May 2019

Elgin to Drumnadrochit


After a great time in Pitlochry we travelled north to Elgin visiting Cairngorm Brewery en route to pick up a selection of beers to try once we're home. We also visited the Speyside Cooperage detailed in my previous post. I will be writing a dedicated post on all the distilleries we have visited so this post focuses on the other exciting places we've discovered.

But first I must mention our Elgin hotel, Mansion House. As you can see it's a grand building and was once a grand hotel. Sadly now it has seen better days; its pool is closed, its pool table has split velvet and its overall decor is in need of some tlc.
Msnsion House Hotel 
That said our room was great; old, quirky but a real treat. Twin beds is not our usual choice but who would say no to a room with two four poster beds! Being on the ground floor gave us a French door leading to the terrace, perfect for enjoying the warm sunny evenings and enjoying a glass of wine.

Our twin four poster beds
Just outside our hotel was Ladyhill, the site of Elgin Castle. Built in the 12th Century there are still a few walls of this ancient stronghold, however it is the 80 foot monument built in 1839 to the 5th Duke of Gordon that now stands high above the town. Climbing the numerous steps to reach the top was worth it for the view across the town and almost to the sea at Lossiemouth.

Monument to 5th Duke of Gordon
At the opposite end of the town stands the ruins of Elgin Cathedral. Alexandra II granted the town royal charter in 1224 and giving land for the cathedral to be built for the Bishop of Moray. Completed less than twenties years later the Cathedral was destroyed by fire in 1270 and sihas been repaired, destroyed, repaired and finally left to crumble. Elgin has played a big part in Scottish history from Macbeth in 1040 to the Duke of Cumberland (who defeated the Jacobites at Culloden) in 1746.

Elgin Cathedral 
It's imposing towers, now in ruins
After two nights in Elgin we travelled on to Drumnadrochit visiting two National Trust for Scotland properties en route. The first was Brodie Castle, a building that has been in the Brodie family for over 400 years. It's had many changes and additions all explained by our guide. The Library was amazing with its wooden panelling and over 6,000 books. The stone staircase caused me a little trouble as it was very worn, having once been an external stairway each step was also quite weathered.
Brodie Castle
Driving on from the castle we were surprised and delighted to see Culloden Viaduct. Its 29 spans cross the River Nairn valley. Covering 549m in length this railway viaduct is the longest masonry viaduct in Scotland.

Culloden Viaduct
Our second National Trust of Scotland property was not a building but a battlefield. The Battle of Culloden is significant in Scottish history, its popularity increased by the Outlander TV series. The battle took place on 16th April 1746 between the Red Coats (British Government) and the Jacobites (those wanting to restore the House of Stuart). The Duke of Cumberland's army won the battle with 300 wounded or killed soldiers; the Jaobite loss was far greater, 2000 killed in a battle that lasted just a few hours.

Battlefield of Culloden 
It was quite moving to see the size of the battlefield, and some has already been built on. Not all the land has been excavated, it is a cemetry for many who fell in battle. The National Trust for Scotland has built a cottage to show how it was at the time, inside is a display showing how they are working to stop more of this important site being developed.

Culloden cottage
Two great visits, there is just do much to see. Drumnadrochit is on the banks of Loch Ness, famous for the sea monster Nessie. The Caladonian Canal starts in Inverness, joins Loch Ness and continues as the canal south of the loch towards Fort William, we'll be travelling this way after our few days here.

Caladonian Canal
Our first view of Loch Ness
We've had beautiful weather so far, perfect for a stroll to the local pub for fish and chips sitting outside in the evening sun ..... and yes we did find Nessie !

Fish and chip supper
We did find Nessie! 

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