Berwick upon Tweed

After our few days in Edinburgh we stayed in Berwick-upon-tweed along with our friends. Although the Haven site is quite large our caravans were nearby each other so not far to walk home after our evenings together.

Hubby and I visited Berwick-upon-tweed in 2021 when there were still restrictions so we were looking forward to revisiting. However we were still restricted as one day it poured down with winds over 65km, nice to watch the rough sea but not great for walking around. 

We did manage to walk the ramparts around the town. The bridges are quite a sight and as the tidal river Tweed was low there were herons on the shoreline. Each one on their own dotted along river edge, we wondered if each had their own patch.

 

Berwick-upon-tweed is a place often visited by L. S. Lowry. The famous matchstick people painter loved to holiday in Berwick-upon-tweed, The Lowry Trail around the town features many of his paintings.

We didn't follow the trail but did see this Lowry board on our rampart walk. The buildings are still quite similar today, just a few changes showing how life is different now - yellow lines and vehicles instead of people. 

In the centre of the town is Berwick Barracks, this was closed on our last visit. The Barracks were purpose built in the 18th century to protect the Border. Today the buildings house various museums about the history of Berwick-upon-tweed and the King's Own Scottish Borderers museum. It was interesting to visit this English Heritage property but wasn't wheelchair accessible so not suitable for one of our friends.

On our final day we drove inland and across the border back into Scotland to visit Coldstream. The museum there was really good with lots of information about the Coldstream Guards as well as the local area.

We stopped by the Union Chain Bridge on the way. Although construction of the Menai Bridge had begun the Union Chain Bridge was the first wrought iron suspension to be opened. In 1820 it was the longest vehicular Bridge with a span of 449 feet. The bridge was very much needed and although free today people were happy to pay the crossing toll as the alternative route was either 11 mile round trip via Berwick-upon-tweed or a 20 mile route via Coldstream.

Crossing today is on foot or one vehicle at a time. It is a narrow crossing and the suspension bridge does move up and down with the weight of a vehicle as it crosses, it looks quite drastic and I'm glad we drove across before I saw a crossing. It was a lovely location, the River Tweed was very full and fast flowing after all the rain.

We had a good time with our friends, we always do when away... good food and good wine. Although the weather was typically British our short stay in Berwick-upon-tweed was lovely, it is somewhere I would visit again.

Edinburgh

We previously visited Edinburgh in March 2022 spending a whole week exploring. This visit was a weekend with friends to see the highlights, although autumn we were very lucky with the weather.

We stayed in Leith at the Premier Inn, a bit of confusion as their parking is no longer free (no notification of change when we booked). It's a standard hotel but a great location as the new tram is only a few minutes walk away, as is HMY Britannia. 

As we had visited most places whilst our friends explored we went to The Georgian House now owned by the National Trust. They actually own three of the houses in the row including the house used by the First Minister of Scotland.

The house was an example of Georgian living, it wasn't a house owned by anyone in particular. There is currently an exhibition of design and clothing on the second floor, the dresses were beautiful.

The first floor had examples of Georgian living. The fabric and floor design in the bedroom was beautiful and as always I love a large set dining table and the promise of a good evening.

Below stairs was the kitchen, a huge room filled with shining mould. It must have been hot hard work but I would have loved to have been a chef in a kitchen such as this. 

In one of the pantries we found a lovely pewter set of measuring jugs, they look nicer than my glass Pyrex ones in our kitchen.

We had a super time with our friends especially revisiting Johnnie Walker Princes Street and enjoying a wee dram in the rooftop 1820 bar that overlooks the castle we visited earlier.

Leaving Edinburgh we headed to Berwick-upon-tweed for a caravan holiday. On the way we called again at Glenkinchie, a Johnnie Walker lowlands distillery. We had no time for a tour but did enjoy a coffee and browse through the shop.

It was lovely to be in Edinburgh again, a little steep in places for pushing our friend in her wheelchair but everywhere was sufficiently accessible especially HMY Britannia. We all had a great time, thank you Edinburgh.